As it gets colder and darker, we find ourselves eating and drinking indoors… Luckily, Edinburgh has some fantastic brand new venues to spend your autumn afternoons and evenings. Ailsa Sheldon
Dulse
Seafood lovers, rejoice! Edinburgh’s hottest new restaurant, Dulce, from chef and restaurateur Dean Banks, is a glorious celebration of Scottish seafood. It’s easy with octopus, but a little harder when chasing langoustine tails in a soupy sauce. For those who envy frequent orders, it’s a dream.
Fish dominates the decor, with nautical-themed murals and bold art, an elegant Newtown feel, and a long wooden bar, tall scalloped bar stools, and velvet banquettes. The service is friendly and the wine list is enticing.
You can’t resist plump Cambrai oysters, try one with a Bloody Mary and another with lime and jalapeño. A Bloody Mary might have had the edge, but we’d certainly need half a dozen more.
The Arbroath Smokie tart had a thin, flaky pastry with a foamy smoked fish custard (much more appetizing than it looked). Tender octopus tentacles were a perfect match for the smoky charred tomato sauce and lemon pearl barley.
The crowning glory was the John Dory on the bone, simply cooked in butter to bring out the flavors of the fish. Along with that was a warm salad of yellow zucchini and tomatoes, drenched in a generous buttery lemon sauce, with unnecessary but delightful seaweed potatoes and garlic broccoli on the side.
Seafood restaurants are predictable, but Dulse is not. The dishes are really original and show not only the high quality ingredients but also the skill and talent in the kitchen. We are already planning a return trip to try the rest of the menu.
dulse.co.uk
